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achemel



Joined: 29 Mar 2009
Posts: 555
Location: up for debate

PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's awful trying to exercise because I start shutting down at prime jogging time and the gym is half an hour away. Also I went out looking for a puppy to adopt this weekend so conlanging didn't happen. Oops.
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I have some small knowledge of:
English, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, French
I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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eldin raigmore
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

achemel wrote:
It's awful trying to exercise because I start shutting down at prime jogging time and the gym is half an hour away. Also I went out looking for a puppy to adopt this weekend so conlanging didn't happen. Oops.

A puppy is a great cure for workaholism, or at least for those symptoms of workaholism that involves forgetting to go home on time, eat supper on time, or exercise.
Most breeds need an hour of play per day. Some need two. FAIK some need only a half-hour.
Dogs need leadership and exercise and love.
So do humans; but a dog's hierarchy of needs is in a different order than a human's. A dog needs leadership more than love.

Are you good at keeping houseplants and pet fish alive?
Because a puppy is even more demanding.

Before sundown every day (if you work days) you need to get home in time to walk your dog while you can still see well enough not to trip on the breaks in the sidewalk. (Or the tree-roots ripping up the pavement, whichever you have. I'm just assuming you don't live in a city which both maintains its streets and sidewalks well, and has places suitable for a dog to walk. I'm sort of assuming there are no such cities.)

If you get home around daybreak, then maybe you can walk your puppy and feed and water him before going to bed.

As for exercise, why does it have to be in a gym?

And the key thing is how far you go, not how long it takes you or how fast you go. Jog if you want to; but you'll burn just as much if you just walk the same distance. It just takes less time. (And maybe you want to build up your power instead of just burn calories. Certainly your dog will not object to as much speed as you are capable of, once s/he has grown up some.)

If you can get an "electronic leash" your dog may be able to go at its own speed while you also go at your own speed. It needs to warn the dog if it gets out of line-of-sight or gets too far away; also you need a button to push or something to warn the dog whenever it looks like it's doing something you need it to not do.
A twenty-foot spring-loaded leash -- one on a spring-loaded uptake reel, that is, that will take it up when the dog comes closer than twenty feet -- is a good substitute for an electronic leash.
You may find some people won't trust the electronic leash until they get used to you.
You may also find that, in some places, you need to shorten the leash to six feet. Twenty-foot leashes usually have a way to lock them at six feet.

The main thing will probably be to clean up the dog's poop. I suppose you can easily learn how to do that, if you don't already know. At least, it will be easy once the dog is house-trained and/or paper-trained.

If you get the puppy a crate to live in, or at least stay in sometimes, remember it's a dog, not a human, and actually is descended from ancestors that lived in dens; so it finds a sense of security in semi-lit semi-enclosed spaces that you'd find a bit dim and smallish even if you were only the dog's size. If your bed is high enough, letting the dog have all the space under your bed could be ideal, as long as s/he can stand on four feet in there -- maybe even if he has to crouch a bit, as long as it's not too low. If your sheets hang down on three sides that might be nice for the dog.

But probably your bed isn't that high; mine isn't. Crates are probably better for pups that aren't house-trained yet, anyway.

Your pup will need challenges that it can overcome even in your absence.
You might find a puzzle that you can put food or doggie treats in.
You can get them geared to how intelligent your dog's breed is supposed to be.
S/he should also have a chew-toy that will clean his/her teeth.

And I don't know what breed you're going to get; but some of them want something they can shake to pieces, that will take a while to destroy. It's better for you if that's not your shoes or bath-towels or gloves or bedsheets or socks. If you have a mop-head you're about to throw away that might be good for the dog to shake to death instead. Depending.

Find out how your puppy reacts to mirrors! That can be fun!
You might also find out how it reacts to its own recorded voice.

Some dogs like to play fetch; some would rather play tug-of-war. I don't know what yours will like.

Some dogs, no matter how well they see, will try to retrieve the "fetch object" by scent alone. Others, no matter how well they smell, will try to retrieve it by sight alone. And if you have a "fetch object" that makes noise, --- well! --- that's just heaven to some dogs!
Of course, if it squeaks, all the Labrador retrievers will assume it's theirs.

Sheep dogs, especially German shepherds, will always try to herd something. If there's nothing else to herd they'll try to herd you and your housemates. That might be a problem. Find something else for your dog to do, if that's what kind of dog it is.

Anyway; I predict you'll have lots of fun!

Keep us up to date -- perhaps in one of your conlangs and/or conscripts? -- on both your exercise program and your dog.
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achemel



Joined: 29 Mar 2009
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Location: up for debate

PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I just stopped in to ask if posting about a more recent 'lang would interest anybody, but seeing the above post reminded me that my puppy is awesome. We've taught him a bunch of tricks and he's so excited all the time and it's adorable. He's mostly cattle dog, but he must've been mixed with something else because his litter mates were all different shapes and sizes. He likes to bite but it's partly because he's still teething, and we ended up getting a shock collar a couple weeks ago because he's SO STUBBORN he just wouldn't listen after a while. He learns really quickly though so we only shocked him a couple times (on a low setting of course!) before he learned that the warning beep comes first. He's a good dog. I'll see if I can get a picture up to show you guys. ^_^

Anyway, so new conlang? The writing is still a work in progress and has been for several years, but I reworked it a while ago so the grammar has been changed a good bit and the romanization matches the script more (or, it will when I finish the script too). I'm pretty sure I haven't posted anything before. :/ Or I mean, I know I did one of the translations like 35 words or maybe Babel but not really any info.

Edit: This is lashel, by the way. One of my nymphean languages.
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I have some small knowledge of:
English, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, French
I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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eldin raigmore
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am glad I logged on here soon after your last post!
It's been a while since I logged on last, and it's good luck that I did it now.

Yes, all of us will be interested in your more recent 'lang. However I'm not sure everyone who is interested will log on in the near future. I hope they do, of course.

Should we already know about Lashel? Or about Nymphean languages?

Congratulations on the puppy! Any way you can post a pic? Or maybe a sound-sample?

So, he's a smart one. Then you might want to get him complicated puzzles.

There are i-don't-know-what-to-call-them (jars, I guess) that have a kind of cross cut in them -- two slits at right angles that meet -- that you can put dog-food in; bits of dog-food are difficult to get out through the slits except where they meet, and they're almost easy to get out there.
For a really bright dog, you can get two such jars, one of which fits easily inside the other with room to spare. Getting the food out of the inner jar first and then out of the outer jar is a puzzle that's probably a bit challenging even for a human child. The dog will love it.

Puppy teeth are the sharpest, and that's when your socks and towels etc. acquire the most new holes. (Or, at least, that's my experience!).
IMO mutts make better companion-dogs anyway.

http://conscripts.s4.bizhat.com/viewtopic.php?p=6068&highlight=nymphean#6068
http://conscripts.s4.bizhat.com/viewtopic.php?p=10242&highlight=lashel#10242
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achemel



Joined: 29 Mar 2009
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Location: up for debate

PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have to look for that toy. They have puzzle toys at petco but the ones that aren't the Kong beehive-looking thing all feel like cheap plastic that he might cut himself on. Since he's at least mostly cattle dog I think it would be cool to build him a little obstacle course in the backyard too, but I am a procrastinator so we'll see if that happens.

And, those links are certainly to what I was talking about. ^_^ So there is a sample, but not much about the language then. I know I talked about ra cel, and probably tadvaradcel as well, so I'll start posting about lashel! Yay!
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I have some small knowledge of:
English, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, French
I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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eldin raigmore
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I look forward to all of that.

--------------------------------

Is there even the slightest chance that your dog will learn to speak one of your conlangs?
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achemel



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We thought about teaching him commands in at least a foreign language, if not a conlang, but we couldn't agree on any one thing. I plan to get another dog in a few years, after he's all grown up and well behaved, so I might train that one in a conlang.
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I have some small knowledge of:
English, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, French
I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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eldin raigmore
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

achemel wrote:
We thought about teaching him commands in at least a foreign language, if not a conlang, but we couldn't agree on any one thing. I plan to get another dog in a few years, after he's all grown up and well behaved, so I might train that one in a conlang.


As I understand it, in real life dogs really can learn vocabularies of 400 to 600 words. This doesn't mean they can say even one of them. Nor does it mean they can learn any grammar at all (morphology and/or syntax).

These "words" may include some that are whistled instead of (or as well as) spoken.

If you'd like your dog to be a companion dog you could look up information in your national Kennel Club's "Companion Dog" and/or "Companion Dog Excellent" certification.

Unfortunately, in the U.S. (and I'm afraid most other countries? but maybe not all!) national Kennel Clubs don't let "mutts" try for their CD and CDX certificates.

If you'd like your dog to be a utility dog you can look up information in your national Kennel Club's "Utility Dog" and "Utility Dog Excellent" certifications.

In the U.S. the last I heard (over twenty years ago!) only those four certifications were non-conformation certifications. All the others are about your dogs' looks -- how close they look to the ideal for their breed.

Clubs about your dog's particular breed are likely to care more about such things as his personality than the all-dogs-Kennel-Club organizations.

Anyway, the UD and UDX certifications' requirements (or whatever the equivalents are) are likely to depend on the dog's breed.
You say, for instance, your dog is part cattle-dog. Maybe you could contact the owner of his cattle-dog parent or grandparent and ask them to let you record their commands and tell you what they mean; that's what former owners do for new owners of sheepdogs and collies in England (or the whole U.K.?), IIANM.


[abrupt change-of-topic PS]

I keep forgetting that
(1) you're American,
(2) you're a girl,
(3) you were in the Navy, and
(4) you either live in, or at least once spent a lot of time in, California.
(You must be a bit younger than my niece, who got out of the Army at a time that seems recent to me. She has two very-young sons; and her husband was one of her classmates at West Point.)

Is there anything special about any of those facts that could influence what you want to teach your dog?
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achemel



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

He does respond to whistles but only in the sense that he'll come when we whistle, and it gets his attention when he's being rowdy. I'd like to come up with some whistle commands, especially if we do the whole obstacle course thing, but for now I just want to focus on general obedience like not jumping all over the couch or digging the sprinklers out of the yard. We're not going to get our security deposit back, that's for sure. (-_-); But I suppose the shock collar has been handy for those things.

Being in the Navy certainly has some influence in the way we talk to him, and we were going to name him 'Sir' so we could say things like 'Sir! Get off the couch!" I actually live in Hawaii now which is pretty awesome. I want to be able to take him to the beach and on hikes, so I need him to just learn to listen and get him out and socialized a bit more. After that anything we teach him will just be fun, and a way for him to get treats.

Here's a couple pictures, right after we got him and then like a couple days ago. He's just so stinkin' cute! (Do excuse the mess - we were putting furniture together back then, and now he likes to pull his bedding out of the crate through the smallest hole he can find.)



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I have some small knowledge of:
English, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, French
I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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eldin raigmore
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a dog, "socializing" means (in large part, if not mostly) learning (through practice) how to get along with other dogs.

If there's a local dog-park you could start taking him there, unless he's too young for them, or they have a size-restriction he doesn't fit, or they require certain immunizations he hasn't had yet.

It's surprising how much of other people's opinions of your dog's behavior depends on how well he acts around other animals (especially other dogs).
Our dog went in one year from being "iffy" to "best-behaved" at "the blessing of the animals" because we took him to the local dog park during that year.

To get him to be calm and steady around other people, I think the best thing is to actually take him to obedience school. They also might have age or immunization requirements, though they'll probably accept any size dog. They'll really be training you more than training him. And of course there's likely to be a 50%-50% dog-to-human ratio there.

Other good and less-expensive ideas might be;

* inviting the neighborhood kids and/or your kids' friends and/or your young relatives over to play with him (and their pets if they want, and you and your kids if you have any);

* taking him to the park (I know a leash would be required) where he might run into other people singly, in small groups, or in medium-to-largeish groups.

________________________________________________________________


We used the "invisible fence". Which kind of shock-collar are you talking about -- an infinite leash, or an invisible fence? That is, do you shock him by manually pressing a button when he's doing something he needs to not do and is too far away? Or is there a buried loop of wire that puts out a signal that shocks him when he gets too far outside it?
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achemel



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, he's not really good with other dogs or people just yet. We want to take him to an obedience class but they're very expensive. So far he's only met other puppies while on walks and they don't know how to behave either, so it's a process. We got the collar where you press a button as needed. It has a warning button and then 8 settings for the shock. We haven't had to turn it up past 3 most of the time but when he digs in the yard I turn it up to 4 because we're already probably not going to get the security deposit back and I don't want it to get worse. He's a good dog though, generally speaking.
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I have some small knowledge of:
English, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, French
I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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eldin raigmore
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

achemel wrote:
Yeah, he's not really good with other dogs or people just yet. We want to take him to an obedience class but they're very expensive. So far he's only met other puppies while on walks and they don't know how to behave either, so it's a process. We got the collar where you press a button as needed. It has a warning button and then 8 settings for the shock. We haven't had to turn it up past 3 most of the time but when he digs in the yard I turn it up to 4 because we're already probably not going to get the security deposit back and I don't want it to get worse. He's a good dog though, generally speaking.


Sorry it's been 19 days since I responded.
Is he big now?
Did you find an obedience class or a dog-run or dog-park?

And how are you doing?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah, he hasn't really gotten any bigger. We haven't enrolled in a class yet either, but he's been doing much better for no obvious reason and now just this week he's been neutered. He had a little separation anxiety before and now it's considerably worse.

I'm doing well anyway. Took a week of vacation. ^_^ I'm starting a garden in the yard and learning some Korean recipes. How've you been?
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I have some small knowledge of:
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I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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eldin raigmore
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

achemel wrote:
... just this week he's been neutered. He had a little separation anxiety before and now it's considerably worse. ….

If I were getting separated from my gonads, I'd be anxious, too.


achemel wrote:
How've you been?

Pretty good. Still recovering from surgery. Finally I can eat pureed food that's not liquid. In a while I'll be allowed solid soft food.


Quote:
I'm starting a garden in the yard and learning some Korean recipes.

Are those two facts related at all?

****************************

BTW do you know why you and I seem to be the only ones who post on this phpBBoard anymore?
Have all the other Vreleksans migrated to the wiki exclusively, or something?
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to hear you're going okay. Continue to recover well. ^^ The garden was mostly because vegetables are so stinkin' expensive here I figured I could just grow some myself, and also learn to garden. The dog's better now - he stopped yelping obnoxiously every time I walk away.

I don't know what happened to everyone else... I actually don't know if I've ever been to the wiki so I don't know if they're there either. :/
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I have some small knowledge of:
English, Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, French
I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who else is here?
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still live. I have done nothing constructive.
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I would like to learn:
(more) Chinese, Swedish, Italian, German, Indonesian, Tagalog, Gaelic
Main conlangs:
ddamachel, tadvaradcel, ra cel, lashel, hemnalg, nomah
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've asked some questions on the CWBB about sex and reproduction.
Not what we're used to.
Instead, a system where everyone has three parents, and there are four sexes, and if all three parents are different sexes from each other then the offspring is always the missing sex.

I've also been active on the CBB.

I've spent a lot of time thinking about my neographies or con-scripts, but I haven't posted anything about it.
I'm looking for a way to make syllable-blocks when the syllables can contain up to four phonemes, and the script is boustrephedon, starting bottom-to-top within right-to-left, alternating with top-to-bottom within right-to-left.
And I want to make it cursive.
I have 32 consonants and 9 vowels.
The language does have vowel-clusters in the same word, but not in the same syllable; so it doesn't have diphthongs or triphthongs or tetraphthongs. Instead, when two vowels appear consecutively in the same word, there's always a hiatus between them, because there's always a syllable-boundary between them.
When a syllable shares a phoneme with a morpheme, I want either the entire syllable to be within the morpheme, or the entire morpheme to be within the syllable. Or, if not, I want the writing to be as if that were so; so if a syllable-block contains parts of two different morphemes it has to contain all of both of them. I understand Hangul is like that.

Well, IMO I've made some progress, but none that I know how to show yet.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 2:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like you're doing some interesting stuff. ^_^ I would like to do some more work on lashel but it's so difficult to pick up where I left off. I was thinking instead of translating (or trying to translate) "Dealing with Dragons" by Patricia C Wrede into ddamychal or something that I have more of a feel for. I suppose I could try Korean.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why do you have a feel for Korean?

How long is Wrede's "Dealing with Dragons"?
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